In 2015 the province of Alberta Canada was rocked when a well-loved Air Force Search and Rescue Sergeant died in an avalanche fatality.  What made his death unique is that avalanche fatality occurred while descending the infamous Polar Circus ice climb. After rappelling down the most technical part of the climb the victim was traversing a snowy ledge system to set up the final rappels.  It was on this traverse that he was swept off the face and fell 110 meters.

The avalanche happened so quickly that his partner reported never seeing or hearing him get avalanched.  Then once the partner realized what happened the victim could not be found because neither of them were wearing avalanche beacons.  It wouldn’t be until 3 days later that a rescue team was able to find the victim's body using an avalanche dog helicoptered into the accident site.  While the fatality was ruled a trauma it took days to recover the body simply because the ice climbers weren’t wearing their beacons. (the AAC Accident Report)

Unfortunately, what happened on Polar Circus isn’t unique to Canada.  In informal surveys by our guide service around the state of California very few climbers admit to considering avalanches in their decision making.  Even fewer admit to wearing or even carrying avalanche beacons, shovels or probes. There seems to be a disconnect between ice climbers and avalanche hazard.

This disconnect seems to be the all the more surprising because many of the steep gully features that lead to ice climbing conditions are also generally also considered avalanche terrain.  Even where the route itself is not exposed to avalanche many of the areas adjacent to the climbs are avalanche terrain. This is the rule not the exception in popular ice climbing areas like June Lake, South Lake, and Cold Stream Canyon.  Lee Vining Canyon, the most popular ice climbing area of the state, can have exposure to very large avalanches and was the site of a D3+ avalanche in 2017.

As we all have learned in our avalanche level 1 course, terrain traps can drastically increase the consequences of even the smallest of avalanches.  It should go without saying that ice climbing on vertical faces with sharp tools attached to our hands and feet represent a unique kind of terrain trap.  For a climber leading who can be well above precarious ice screws it doesn’t take much force to send a climber tumbling off an icy face.

In short, our ice climbing community could do a lot better of protecting themselves and those around them by taking greater consideration of their avalanche hazard and exposure.  Climbers need to recognize that small avalanches can have big consequences because more than skiers and snowboarders their activity gives them far greater exposure. Finally, ice climbers need to make sure they are properly equipped and trained for avalanche danger every time they go out.  Avalanches don’t discriminate; it is imperative that they are wearing a beacon, shovel and probe every time they go into avalanche terrain.

Special thanks to Stephen Holeczi and Grant Statham of Parks Canada for the information regarding the 2015 Polar Circus Accident.